5. Research Methodology :2

 

The research methodology I would be working towards is qualitative and action research.
I plan to create Mehndi shapes and designs and then incorporate the design into Jhumka earrings. The next step would involve making the jewelry with more fluidity and curvy lines. The process for creating the jewelry would involve CAD (Computer-Aided Design on Rhino 5), piercings, and wax pieces.
Afterward, I would observe how the jewelry looks as part of the body of work. The links need to establish a stronger connection to the pearl within the piece. After observing the reflection, the shapes need to be more integrated. I need to figure out how to merge the links into the pieces, with the designing aimed at modernizing the Mehndi design look.
To modernize the materials and incorporate the idea of adding color, I plan to work with glass paint and nail polish. The goal is to achieve a lighter piece of jewelry, with the lines and texture being more modernized. As a designer, I need to think and act in consideration of both the old and the new. UAI

5.Research Methodology

 My initial plan involved creating a jhumka design on paper and then transferring it to CAD (Rhino 5). The goal was to incorporate the mehndi design seamlessly, so I opted to design directly on Rhino 5 for clarity. After finalizing the design, I proceeded to create a prototype using the printed Rhino 5 design. This allowed for a clear visualization of the design with the metal. The design was affixed to the metal, and I began piercing the pattern onto a brass plate as a prototype.

To enhance the precision of the piercing, especially for smaller shapes, I used an optivisor for a crisper look. Subsequently, I added color to the design, considering contrasting colors and their visual impact on the jhumka. While working on the prototype and involving a setter for stone placement, I received feedback that the stones might not set properly due to insufficient metal space. To address this, beeswax was used to ensure better stone placement on the plate.

Adjustments were made, and the stones were successfully set. The takeaway from this process was the need for improved metal spacing, prompting a revisit to the design. Additionally, ensuring accurate stone sizes and simplifying the color choice would facilitate a quicker and smoother setting process for the future. UAI

4.Literature Review

 The concept of modernizing Jhumka by integrating Mehndi art into the jewelry was explored through research on companies specializing in Jhumkas and artists skilled in Mehndi art. I delved into a Cape Town-based company named “Jhoomka” and a professional Mehndi artist, Zeenat Adams, recognized for her unique work, “ZAHA.”
The prominent company for Jhumkas, "Jhoomka," differentiated itself by offering gold and silver-plated hand-painted Jhumkas, inspired by traditional Indian earrings. Their designs often feature elements such as the daisy, jasmine, and lawsonia inermis. In contrast, my approach involves creating modernized Jhumkas, enameling them, incorporating cutex as a substitute for enamel, developing diverse enameling techniques, and using gemstones for varied colors. The company's focus on color choice for consumer attraction and the precision of the decorative aspect has influenced my design process.

 Jhoomka's Jhumka: silver plated and hand-painted 

Jhoomka's Jhumka:Hand-painted, silver plated, silver balls, engraved design

Zeenat Adams, known for her detailed Mehndi designs, is a potential collaborator for incorporating Mehndi designs into jewelry. In a conversation with Zeenat, she highlighted the importance of practice for improving design skills, emphasizing the testing of designs and Mehndi pastes on herself before applying them to customers.

Zeenat Adams back mendhi design

Zeenat Adams bridal mendhi 

Most Jhumkas are typically sold at Indian fairs, local Indian outfit stores, or online platforms like Jhoomka. Zeenat, focusing on the Mehndi aspect, is based in Durban, while various Mehndi artists are found throughout South Africa. UAI

Jayshree's jhumka Earrings 

2. Context of Research

Jhumkas, traditionally known for their bell shape inspired by temple structures, often feature lotus, jasmine, and daisy motifs. These earrings are commonly enameled, with plastic stones adhered to the gold-plated design for added attraction.

Mehndi, a paste made from crushed leaves, is applied decoratively on the hands, symbolizing good health, prosperity, and success in marriage.

The research aims to modernize the traditional Jhumka by incorporating Mehndi art as the design focus. This involves experimenting with metals, colour choices, and enameling techniques while maintaining the distinctive bell shape. The goal is to create a more dimensional appearance rather than a flat one.

The research process includes examining existing Jhumka designs and contrasting them with Mehndi art. The objective is to strike a balance between preserving the traditional look and infusing a modern aesthetic, catering to the preferences of the current generation (Gen Z and millennial). UAI

Traditional Gold Jhumka: Bell-shaped,dangling pearls

Modernised Jhumka: diamonds set

Professional Mendhi artwork by Zeenat Adams

Mendhi I had applied for Diwali 2023 

3. Research problems and Aims :2

 The concept I'm working on involves modernizing Jhumkas to align with current generational design preferences and manufacturing techniques. While maintaining the traditional roots of Indian culture, the idea is to express Jhumkas in various forms like necklaces, rings, bracelets, etc. The modernization includes a shift from traditional floral motifs like jasmine, lotus, and daisy to incorporating Mendhi art as the primary design. To enhance attraction, I plan to introduce color through diverse enameling techniques, gemstone settings (considering shape, color, and sizes), and the use of mixed metals. UAI

Traditionally shaped jhumkas :enameled ,gold plated ,beads and stones set 

The mendhi art I applied on my sister and I,Diwali 2020

3. Research Problems and Aims

 What is modernised Indian Jewellery? What are Jhumkas? What is the significance of Mendhi Art? How does it impact the new generation? 

The research aims to modernize the traditional Jhumka by incorporating Mehndi Art as the design focus. This involves experimenting with metals, color choices, and enameling techniques while maintaining the distinctive bell shape to create a more dimensional appearance.
The modernization comes into play with the design aspect, allowing the fluidity of the design to be encountered. The shapes are seen in different ways, from organic to probably geometric, creating a bold and flowing effect.
The concept involves modernizing Jhumka earrings to align with current generational design preferences and manufacturing techniques. While maintaining the traditional roots of Indian culture, the idea is to express Jhumka in various forms like necklaces, rings, bracelets, etc., with a shift from traditional floral motifs like jasmine, lotus, and daisy to incorporating Mehndi art as the primary design. UAI

Jhumka:Gold, enameled and pearls

Mendhi applied on my sister and I 

2.Context of Research

I will be deriving the idea from the traditional look of a jhumka to a modernised look by adding mendhi art as the design focus ,as well as the metal used and colour choices(manner of it being set/enameled).

The bell shape of the Jhumkas are derived from the temple structure,the domeness being a role to create depth will allow my pieces to look more dimensional rather than flat. 

Traditional Jhumkas: gold, pearls ,bell-shaped earrings 

Modernised Jhumkas: pearls,gold plated,mirror finish 

1. Field of Research and Provisional Title

 Modernised Indian Jewellery 

-Jhumka and Mendhi art

Splash page of provisional title